“There are vampires. They are real, they are of our time, and they are here, close by, stalking us as we sleep…”- Bram Stoker, Dracula, 1897. The forest stirred to the sound of banging metal. Whomp. Whomp. Whomp....
YABLANITSA, Bulgaria— Three decades ago, no westerner could see this view. The Balkan Mountains lay before me. The sun, still lingering in the early summer air, cast a marigold glow as cool mists rose up from the valley below....