A grey dawn broke the darkness of Hoi An. As the streetlights gently flickered, I found myself alone by the walls of the ancient city, with centuries of travelers beside me.
“Australians are you?” “Americans.” “Wow. What in the devil are you doing here?” — Hoi An Hotelier
The man greeted me eagerly just outside the cathedral, his tiny hands barely reaching past the short sleeves of his shirt. A wide, tan grin smiled almost longer than his misshapen torso. “Hello,” he said. “Welcome.”
“Ever seen the green flash, Mr. Gibbs? They say it signals a soul coming back to this world from the dead.” “I reckon I seen my share.” SIBERIA — Somewhere off the coast, I watched a green ribbon dance over...
“Why would you go there?” “I’d rather go anywhere else on Earth than there.” “It was nice knowing you.” Those are the kind of reactions you get when you mention Vietnam. The word—the place—is cast in a haunting...